San Cristobal de las Casas
April 26th, 2010 by robert

I arrived in San Cristobal (about two weeks ago)  just in time to go out to dinner with my friends Peter and María Elena, who I hadn’t seen in sixteen years. Peter and I worked together in Costa Rica and Nicaragua during the turbulent 1980’s. Peter´s mother was visiting too, so I began a needed period of regrouping: laundry, writing, talking with friends, and just hanging out. There was no lack of social opportunity, as every night there was an engagement with some of their friends. The conversation in Spanish was rapid and intellectually stimulating, lots of it centered on politics in Chiapas.

Catedral de Guadalupe

San Cristobal is a different place, since I last visited in 1993. Transformed. Jess and I came with Nico to visit different friends here, and I remember searching all over town for the one café that served decent coffee, owned by an Italian. Now you cannot walk ten paces without finding a café or a store that sells organic Chiapas coffee. Some of the streets are closed to cars, and they buzz in the evenings with all kinds of people deciding whether to go to an Agentinian, Italian, Lebanese or French restaurant, or perhaps to the brew-pub. San Cristobal is an extremely cosmopolitan place, though still relatively small. I like it.

With the generous hospitality of Peter and María Elena, I was able to base myself at their house for several excursions to relatively nearby destinations. I had hoped to return to the western edge of the Lacondon forest, but the logistics were too complicated, so I went elsewhere. . .


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